Use a two or three-pound cut of shellac and apply generously with long, smooth strokes. It really is that simple, and it’s almost impossible to mess up! I’m Adam, and I’m a small-shop woodworker. I subscribed to your site today. But stores, and especially large home-center chains, were caught in the middle with cans that were too old, and they surely complained to Zinsser. These are the 2 categories of penetrating oils, so let me break it down a little further so you can understand the difference. What would you use for a cutting board that has been stained and top coated with water based behr. Similar to Mineral Oil, this wax is derived from petroleum. form of shellac used by woodworkers as a finish is formed by dissolving flakes of shellac in an alcohol solvent I first tried shellac because I was looking for a food safe coating for a baby toy I was making for my Great Granddaughter. Also feel free to leave questions or comments below! The point is that these additives are used to help with application and curing. This drying oil comes from flax seeds, and offers protection from sun and water damage. It’s okay if it overfills the crack. If not, then I personally prefer polyurethane for it’s extreme protective qualities and low-maintenance. https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Dye-Wood-Using-Natural-Ingredients-in-5-Ste/, I would like a food safe sealer for painted wood ie: painted salad bowls and cheese boards. 4.7 out of 5 stars 519. Be sure to leave it exposed to oxygen after application. of shellac resin per gallon of alcohol). Ha! I would actually recommend using food-safe wood glue. Also, as with any wood finish, follow instructions on the container, and dispose of your rags properly. So it only makes sense to use food safe finishes when we’re working on wood projects that will come in contact with our mouths, our food, or our children in any way. Since shellac dries quickly, be careful to avoid drips or blotchy areas when applying because unlike other finishes, you will likely not have time to over-brush to eliminate the blemish. This may be a dumb question, but I’ve never done this before so bear with me. Consider it unappetizing, but not inedible from a food safety-standpoint. The fact is, there’s no evidence of these wood finishes, even the ones that initially have dryers or solvents in them, have actually caused any harm by coming in contact with food, or with a persons mouth. You’ll need to allow the oil to soak in for at least 30 minutes before you wipe off the excess and you should wait 24 hours before applying another coat. Likely it is non-lead today, but sure not worth the chance. It gives depth and beauty to wood grain, and won't raise or swell the wood grain. Thank you for a great article! It is available in a clear or amber tint. This is one of the few popular “Drying Oils” (I’ll explain what that means below). Shellac gives a natural protective coating to wood, can block odors (can be used to seal formaldehyde odors from particleboard), and can be tinted. To apply an oil finish, you need some lint-free rags and some nitrile gloves. There’s a simple process I use in my shop, ensuring that I never have to worry about burning my house down. WOOD SHOP ESSENTIALS Table Saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push Stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled And more…. Be sure to sign up below for all kinds of woodworking tips and projects sent straight to your inbox! Not all commercially produced finishes are made the same. Lightly wipe it down again to remove sanding slurry build-up with the same rag that already has some oil in it (not enough to pool up on the top), then let it dry before applying the next coat. But that doesn’t mean they don’t meet the standards. Zinsser® Bulls Eye® Shellac is an alcohol-based solution of lac, a natural resin imported mainly from India and available in clear and amber tones. What if I want to stain a Beech butcher block a dark walnut, but also make it safe? Of course, denatured alcohol is the solvent for shellac, which if … With all these choices, how do you decide what’s going to work best for your project? Sincerely, HEK Architect [73 yr old]. The alcoholic fumes are also not poisonous. If so, I figure that maybe the finish needs to be something that is practically edible. They provide a long list of products that can be included in the finish, and it just so happens, the ingredients in modern wood finishes are all on that list! There are some finishes that most experts agree as to the safety of use with food preparation. I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. That means there’s no reason to avoid certain finishes like their a plague. I mean, we have to be careful about what we ingest, right? So if that sounds more like you, then do what I do. Zinsser markets de-waxed shellac … It is for interior use only and requires 3 coats for maximum durability. With the date stamp, and the fact that the company-issued literature states its shellac was good for three years after the stamped date, you had a good idea as to when the shellac would reach it’s end. After I stain, can any of the methods you mentioned be used over the stain? This creates a slurry that fills tiny pores and leaves a glass-smooth finish. The other guideline the FDA uses is that it must not leach more than a certain amount of its ingredients within a very specific set of parameters. Also works great for sealing wood, knots and drywall prior to applying paint. This can only be determined by way of expensive testing of each and every batch, so obviously, it’s a test that is not commonly performed. I’m talking about penetrating oil finishes here, from the list above. A surface sealer, also known as a film finish, remains on the surface and leaves a layer that can be built up for added protection. B-I-N ® Advanced Synthetic Shellac Primer is a synthetic shellac-based primer sealer that provides excellent stain blocking for whole-surface interior priming and exterior spot priming. Shellac is a safe, food safe wood stain made from a resin secreted from the female lac bug and ethanol. The deterioration isn’t caused by exposure to oxygen. The main difference between penetrating oil finishes, and surface sealer finishes, is probably pretty obvious, but I’ll explain anyway. The top was previously been sealed w linseed oil and used in a kitchen. Make sure to read the product label and find where it says “food-safe” because some mineral oil is not safe for consumption; often used as lubricant for machinery. Shellac is often used for children's toys and furniture. It can be applied with a brush, pad, sprayer or wiping cloth. Add that to the fact that some commercially available surface sealers and film finishes dry fast, last a long time, and provide the highest level of protection, and you’ll see why these choices are commonly used in ‘food grade’ applications. Pour some oil on to the rag, or directly on the wood surface. It will dry to a slight golden, satin tint. If you couple that with lack of fresh air flow, the heat coming off the rag can build up. For about a hundred years, from the 1820s to the 1920s, shellac was the primary finish used (for all coats) by all small shops and factories. Most often these are done in a foreign country with no safety paint standards. Be sure to get the “distilled” or “fractionated” variation, which is refined so it won’t go rancid. You can use General Finishes ‘Wood Bowl Finish’ unless you’re going to be chopping and cutting on a consistent basis. I have found some incredibly interesting facts around the topic of food safe wood finishes. Mostly, I’m referring to what many people consider “Non Food Safe” finishes, specifically things like Boiled Linseed Oil, Danish Oil, Varnish, Polyurethane, Lacquer, and even paint. Beeswax will hydrate wood, and make it shine. Use 1 part beeswax to 2 parts mineral oil. There are a lot of recipes you can find online, but I’d recommend using coffee. You can bet it’s safe to consume, they coat candy with it after all. Nut allergies are quite common. Shellac is very inexpensive and can be a life saver depending on the piece you are working on. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue (green bottle) is FDA-approved for use on food preparation surfaces and easy to clean up since it’s water-soluble when wet. I use boiled linseed oil and various stains all the time, and both of these can combust like that. With all the toxins that exist around us, in what seems like everything…. I want to stain a kitchen island top that I’ll be using to prep food. It’s a popular choice for maintaining and protecting wood surfaces that come in contact with food. Hi Julia, If you’re not cutting directly on the surface, I would definitely suggest an oil-based polyurethane. In fact, this very thing happened to my dad when I was just a kid, and had he not heard that small explosion of the rag combusting, our house would have burned down. In other words, many options are concoctions that include solvents, thinners, dryers, metal compounds, and other popular wood-finishing ingredients. Zinsser® Bulls Eye® Shellac is an alcohol-based solution of lac, a natural resin imported mainly from India and available in clear and amber tones. Tung oil is a base used in various other blended sealers. If you go with a penetrating oil, then do you want higher maintenance or lower maintenance wood finish (non-drying oil vs drying oil, I’ll explain below)? A while back, Zinsser switched from using a date stamp on can lids to a lot number. And here’s where the controversy lies… Commercially available wood finishes of all kinds, if given adequate time to fully cure, are actually safe to eat off of. But for most other projects that don’t need quite the protection, like toys, picture frames, book cases, and decorative shelves, I prefer penetrating finishes for their simplicity, but also for the fact that they excel at really bringing out the grain, leaving a beautiful, satin finish. Onsite Associates Program . For me, I prefer a surface sealer for most projects that will get more physical abuse, wear and tear, cleaning agents, or moisture. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. A discharge from the lac bug (in Asia) is what shellac solids consist of, thus it is very natural. It will be dry to the touch in 12 hours, but should not be re-coated for at least 24 hours. It’s caused by the chemical reaction between the acidic shellac and the alcohol. For a non toxic wood finish with what I consider middle-of-the-road benefits (between ease, beauty, and protection), shellac is a great choice for fine furniture, many small crafts, and childrens toys. It’s important to use caution with tung oil because it is made from the tung tree which produces nuts. Both Clear and Amber Bulls Eye Shellac contain from 3% to 5% natural shellac wax, which gives them their somewhat milky appearance in the container but does not affect the clarity of the finish film. Using tung oil will provide a protective waterproof finish and it doesn’t mold, darken, and it dries faster than other oils. Bring out the natural beauty of wood grain like no other finish can, with Rust-Oleum® Zinsser® Bulls Eye® Shellac. This is the same whether it’s a drying or a non-drying oil, and please don’t forget to discard your rags properly!!! And yes, the poly will go right over the stain, I do that all the time. But don’t let that scare you. According to George Snyder, a Product Manager with Woodcraft, “all finishes made after 1972 are food-safe when cured properly. For best application results thin shellac before using. Walnut oil is derived from english walnuts… who would’ve thought! Note: Not all of these finishes are commonly considered a food safe wood finish, which is why only 2 of them are on my list above. Avoid on surfaces that will get hot, as the wax can melt off. And contrary to popular belief, pure tung oil does not affect those with “nut” allergies. Dewaxed Orange Shellac Flakes. Guaranteed Food Safe Finishes. See full review. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. Raw linseed oil is water-repellent and dries to a semi-gloss finish. General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish is a durable oil and urethane based finish. If you are the type of person that gets highly concerned about toxins in things like wood finishes, then you’ll be much more comfortable using the finishes on the list I’ve provided you above. I would use General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. Thank you so much for such an informative piece of information If anyone interested similar one’s have a look here Besttoolsbrand. These rags are soaked all the way through, so there’s quite a bit of oil within. The process is called polymerization and it most commonly happens when the oil is in contact with oxygen, which means once it’s applied to the wood surface, it begins the curing process. Rule of thumb is any wood finish needs a good 30 days to fully cure…. I’m hesitant to recommend anything else because I don’t know how it would react with the oil based stain you used. Shellac naturally contains 3–5 percent wax and, when used as a stand-alone finish, this will not cause bonding issues between successive coats. The finish may be maintained by re-applying tung oil as needed. A non drying oil stays wet indefinitely. It leaves a glossy finish if applied thick enough and buffed out. Wood stain is not typically food safe. Mineral oil is colorless, odorless and tasteless. But, when using it as a primer or sealer under another finish, choose dewaxed shellac … guidebook by kali brooke. This is a very general guideline to applying an oil finish, but always read the instructions that comes with your finish and make sure you include any additional suggested steps, or coat quantity limitations. It takes 30 days to fully cure, but you can begin light use within 7-10 days. I hope that helps! May be applied at container consistency if desired. Most (if not all) modern types of wood finishes no longer contain the extremely hazardous adds, like lead dryers. This process can take several weeks after a film has formed”. Or do I need to wait for the stain to cure fully? The coating can be applied with a brush, roller or a sprayer. My question is my cutting board (jhon boos) have some crack how and what kind of wood filler that is safe that i can use? For a list of specific food safe finishes that I recommend, please take a look at this page. Premium 100% Pure Food Grade Mineral Oil USP, 1 Gallon, Food Safe Butcher Block and Cutting Board Oil, NSF Certified Material. We still need to be careful, and use common sense. I don’t have a post or recipe on natural wood dyes yet, but here’s a link to a recipe that I’ve used before. With the oil applied thinly and evenly on a wood surface, that heat is wide spread enough that you won’t even notice it coming off the finish. You can bet it’s safe to consume, they coat candy with it after all. During my time as a paint department manager, I had many customers ask me what type of food safe wood stain and sealer would best for things like butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls, wooden utensils etc. Well, the main things would be mercury and lead. It’s very durable and will hold up to wear and tear, as well as cleaning chemicals. Clear shellac dries transparent with a faint, golden cast that is much lighter than oil-based varnishes, while amber shellac has a warm, orange cast that gives a rich, antique look to woodwork. It will require the most frequent re-application, depending on how much wear the wood surface is subjected to. Post has helped you decide which food safe wood stain has the same as linseed... 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